|The climbing page
|16 March 2006 - As an avid rock climber, how could
I resist posting a
link on rocks and balance? I will definitely try this at home!
|05 December 2005 - The last entry on climbing here
on wimdows.nl dates back to June 21, 2005
(as you can see on the climbing page); 3 days after I had broken my ankle
whilst slipping down a slab at the Sloterdijk gym. Did this deter me from
climbing, and is this where the cause for this hiatus is to be found? On
the contrary, I'd say. It's just that I always seem to prefer actual climbing
to writing about climbing. Hence the early demise of my attempt at the Old
Git Climbers Log - the remnant of which you find further down this page.
The cast came of on August 11, and I've been climbing myself back to my
old level ever since. I'm nearly there, it's just that slabs still give
me the creeps. But since I always found them a bit of a hassle, there is
not much love lost anyway. As soon as I start scratching my way back into
that weird and wonderful territory beyond the far side of 6+ again, I'll
let you know.
The actual subject of this post takes us yet further up the hardness scale,
or acutally nearly off it, into another dimension way beyond the reaches
of modern day gravity theory into the realm where there are it's no longer
boulder problems you are dealing with, but outright singularities. One of
my bouldering companions, Jurriaan Zwier, went out and did an interview
with Dutch climbing and bouldering phenomenon Jorg Verhoeven, who at the
start of his adult climbing carreer already knows how it feels to be a world
That should give them something to talk about! It's a
good read, so check it out! (And Freakclimbing.com
has been added to the linkslist on my climbing page.)
21 June 2005 - Although autobiography wasn't a goal I had
in mind when I started this site, I do owe you an explanation regarding
Pic of the Day of June 19th.
In the picture you can make out my feet being rusched into hospital.
Main reason for all this haste is my lower left extremity. A mere
of an hour before the foot, all of a sudden, was attached to the
rest of me in a rather onconventional angle. Although a bit harder
than a ball-and-socket joint like the shoulder, it is possible to
dislocate the ankle. Strangest thing, to see a foot simply ignoring
to the signal to bloody well behave and straighten out. Thanks to
the ambulance guy who did the first aid, in the photograph the foot
is already back in it's proper position - and I am as high as a
kite thanks to the painkillers. What exactly is wrong with the foot
isn't clear yet.
I managed to damage myself this inventfull way by sliding down a
slab during the A5-series bouldering event in Klimhal
Amsterdam in Amsterdam-Sloterdijk. For non-climbers: a 'slab'
is a rather smooth bit of climbing wall that usually is not quite
upright. So, if you fall on a slab, chances are you gonna hit something
hard before you are saved by a mat or a rope. In this case my left
foot went straight for the gap between the mat and the wall, where
it got stuck while my body kept on falling backward. Thus, my ankle
bone got disconnected from my leg bone; and I can assure you the
Word of the Lord was heard in the gym shortly after!
Except for the pulling and overstretching of all kinds of ligaments
that is tradional in these cases, it apears the only real damage
that has been done is a
fracture in the talus bone. Guess I wont be doing much climbing
the coming day or two. The only comfort, besides me being back in
time for barbeque and beers, I find in the fact that this isn't
some old geezers injury, but a tough, young, active, adventureous
sort of injury!
Friday they will do a scan. I will, no doubt, keep you posted..
|19 May 2005 - There is a good chance I will be adding
more Amsterdam urbanning photo's this summer. Those of you who can't wait,
I would like to refer to Otto's
ever increasing bouldering photo-archives...
17 May 2005 - More urbanning in Amsterdam! This
time at the new tram station along the Piet Hein kade. Otto
Jongerius does de the boulder of the
ladybird and the little spider...
It's not a very difficult boulder if you do it straight up, but
if you can stop yourself from grabbing the edge at the back of the
concrete ledge, it's quite a decent mantle training. Up top you
have a choice between 'walrussing' it (you
| will understand this once you get there), or doing
it in proper style and push out those arms till full stretch before
you place a foot. Start sitting and do a two-handed dyno for some
||12 May 2005 - As the self-declared guru of Amsterdam's outdoor
bouldering, I can't get around giving you some good examples of how
it's done. As it happens, I have come up with some bad little problems
over the years! Heaps of 'm!
something you might like to try on what we call, admittedly
somewhat denigrating, the junky wall (you'll find this
little stretch of basalt opposite the entrance of the Scheepvaartmuseum).
There are two doors there (a wide one and a narrow one), and you
can do these moves facing both ways. Loads of chimney fun
to you all!
The photographs are by Yolande van der Sande.
By the way: if you are visiting from abroad, packing some rock
shoes and eager to do some urbanning, don't
hesitate to contact me... I'd be more than happy to show you
|14 February 2005 - Because it still is the most
inspiring bouldering clip (not in the least because of that wicked soundtrack),
I ones more put on offer, this golden oldie as brought to you by the best
climbing site ever (climbXmedia.com of course!): Bring
|05 December 2004 - Two photo's of the Dutch sport
climbing championships in Amsterdam...
on the left Casper ten Sijthoff, on the right Ima Nahumury
20 November 2004 - Turns out I'm not that injured. Been to the
12th Felsfreunde Bouldercup in the attick of the Ex-Haus
in Trier (Germany). Here are the
|04 November 2004 - Remember that picture in John
Sherman's Better bouldering in which he shows off his collection
of injuries? Well, i think i found one he hasn't got yet!
While hanging from the bouldering roof in my local climbing gym with both
my arms stretched out wide perpendicular from my body - Jezus style - with
the middle two fingers of my right hand in a hold, i heard a tearing sound
as i pulled on that hold. I said 'auw' (as we do in the Netherlands), but
actually felt no pain whatsoever. Much to my surprise, i might add.
Today i'm still not completely sure about what is is that tore. Hardly anything
seems to hurt. I'm pretty sure it's not a ligament. More likely the damage
is in a part that attaches the ligament to the rest of the hand. It doesn't
seem too serious... But it scares the shit out of me!
Question is, how injured am I?
01 November 2004 - Well, the old git is back. Bleau
(stop calling it 'Font' will ya!) was tres enjoyable. As
always, the weather was great. (I saw Dave Graham in a clip complaining
about how bad the weather was treating him during his stays in Bleau.
Nature is cruel in more ways than one, it seems Dave, you awfully-skinny-yet-horendously-strong,
superligamented freak, you!) And i finally did P'tit toit
- probably just in time before they downgrade it
ones more. I almost did it last year; i was absolutely sure
it would be a doddle this time, and it was. Only thing was, i was
so psyched when i got there, it still took me about five times to
do the whole bloody thing! I kept racing through the first bit like
the 5b it is, but i kept falling off the 6c moves at the end, because
they of course don't allow for that kind of exhuberance.
On the one hand doing P'tit toit is good riddance! I had been trying
to climb this l'ttle roof since my first visit to Bleau. And although
it isn't all that hard a problem, it had become sort of a gauge
for my progress in bouldering. The first time i tried it, three
years ago, i wasn't ready for it, last year i was nearly ready,
this time i knew i would send it easily. Hence my psyched uppedness.
On the other hand i will miss it, because it sure was a good reason
for coming to the top of the beautifull hill that is 95.2. Luckily
Bleau connaisseur Jurriaan Zwier pointed it out Rudeboy, a creative
7a+ a bit down hill from 95.2.
In the picture I'm doing the knee thing in the early part of the
(Hopefully this will shut up the few people that complain about
there hardly being any pictures of me on this site for a while.)
By the time we linked it up until the last move it was too
dark to finish it off altogether. I'm pretty sure it wil go next
photo: Yolande van der Sande
29 October 2004 - I'm off to a realy slow start, i do
realize. But that's not going to deter me from continuing the journal.
My Picture of the Day had a slow start too, but it's progressing nicely
by now: i haven't missed a day since the early beginnings, now almost
two years ago.
Off to Bleau for the weekend. Finally! Thought it wasn't going to happen
this year. Weather seems nice enough. Hotel has been booked. There a couple
of boulders i wanna do. Bleau has a way of humbling people, so i don't
try and be too optimistic.
Already finished packing. And i didn't forget the sixpack. Hate arriving
somewhere to find there isn't a beer to be had anywhere!
Hope i can bring you back a story and a photo or two.
18 October 2004 - Jeez! I had completely forgotten about
my old geezer climbing log. No wonder, considering i've been climbing
every day! Too friggin' busy doing it to be writingabout it. My last installment
tells me i was on a climbing literature trip. Let's cut that one short.
Among my favourite books are two collections of short stories by several
High Lonesome; epic solo climbing stories and The
best of Rock & Ice; an anthology. But topping them all is
exposed; slightly censored bouldering stories, by John Sherman.
The book I realy hate. Or should I say the couple of pages i really learned
to hate before i chucked away the book because i couldn't stomach the
selfobsessed prose contained in it, are in Op
zoek naar evenwicht (which translates as 'looking for balance')
by Ronald Naar. Naar is the Dutch alpine climber who says he summitted
Everest but probably didn't. To write about your own childhood as if you
were some sort of historical figure, must be the pinnacle of arrogance
- well, at least he summitted that one!
18 October 2004 - ..sentence. I apologize for this, and
do hope it didn't cause you any inconvenience.
Since you might have guessed i am aiming for humour here, this might be
the right moment to inform you on some of my likes and dislikes in climbing
literature. I do like the funny stories best. I have nothing against the
icy suspense of great books like, say, Touching the Void. Which
is a very funny in places too, i hasten to add. But i really love the
works of guys like John Long and John Sherman. (I even forgive the latter
his habbit of going for the easy, adolescent laugh.)
07 October 2004 - Since i've always wanted to write something
in English, I'll start this in that language and not in Dutch. I never
intended this website to be fully bilingual anyway, and most of it is
in Dutch at the moment; so i don't feel to bad about doing something fully
and only in English for a change.
It is my intention to start keeping you people out there informed in my
pro- and - unquestionably - ultimate regress in the sport of climbing.
i've been at it for four years now, mainly finding my kicks in bouldering,
but not minding having to do (short) routes aswell. Am i doing anything
that is remarkable for someone having spent four years training pretty
fanaticaly? No, not really. I'm guessing i move quite nicely, but i'm
still pretty mediocre as it is. The only remarkable thing about me, is
that I started climbing when i was 37, going on 38, and that i'm 42 as
i write this. (Click
here, if you want to check this against information i provide elsewhere...)
Now everybody out there familiar with the the works of the late Douglas
Adams (the bugger died when at 49 when he was working out in a bloody
gym - one reason not to go near the bastards!) knows 42 is a very significant
number indeed, it being the answer to the question of life, the universe
and everything (as given in his classic The
Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy).
I sort of had the idea i should mark this year in my life by doing something
that has some relevance, somehow. Well, this is it: i'm going to write
about climbing and my part in it. (Actually, i already started doing this
in February of this year, when i wrote a
story on my trip to Hampi. The story is in Dutch, but if you are not
able to read it, you can still have a look at the
pictures i took.) But that was such a great experience, the story
almost forced itself upon me and wrote itself. In part this was due to
the Southern Indian atmos and the feeling of retreat that clung to the
whole affair. It was also and largley due to the quality of the rock and
problems. I've only been in three real bouldering areas in my time, but
i hazzard a guess Hampi must be among the top three bouldering areas in
the world. In my version of the lingo: it def. ruleZ okay, mate!
Since this is sort of a weblog, don't expect nicely rounce stories all
the time. I will write this in between other things. So be warned! It
can and will get sketchy at times. I might have to hurry off mid...
September 2004 - Our climbing gym in Amsterdam has a new bouldering
roof. I put a small dyno on there. And we made some pictures...
|August 2004 - Here are some new photo's from Hampi!
I should have made many more, but one can't be working all the time, can
one now? Still here are some
portraits of climbers and friends in and around Goan Cormer in Hampi...
|July 2004 - New! Urbanning wall in Amsterdam-Oost
- I did my first straight ups on July 18,
||2004 (undoubtedly a first). Train your
fingers and feet in a wonderfully peacefull environment.
Extra dimension: in some places the bricks break off when you put
pressure on them. Talking about ripping the grips off the wall!
|March 2004 - Here's the pictures that accompany the
article (in Dutch) on bouldering in Hampi
and Badami (India) as a slide show... Enjoy!
|Summer 2003 - Here's a clip we made ourselves. All
about urbaning in Amsterdam! It's a
clip with two (watch what happens in the background) problems on the (basal)
wall near the Amstel Hotel.
The problem being done in the foreground is to the right end of the wall.
It starts on a reasonable crimper for the left hand and a pretty tricky
bonus hold (that's what we call holds that are genuine features
on the rock instead of being edges of the basal blocks). There's a drill
hole (we didn't drill them, they are just there) for hte left foot and
a good edge for the left. Stepping into the problem (left toe in the hole)
is a not all that easy.
Then, high up, there is a nice and lumpy bonus hold for the right hand,
the left hand can go to a pointy hold. To get to the edge, stand with
your right foot on the hold (recognizable by the bit of cement on it)
in front of your crotch. (Schatting niveau: Fb5+)
Meanwhile in the background two guys (Denny and I) are doing the Screw
Boulder (I saw it first!). Match your hands on the screw, walk up
to the good edges on the corner of on of the stones - and reach for the
edge (no intermediates!) Easy!. (Fb4)
|My climbing shoes